Noel claims to know a local cut named after Dabney Colman. However, he also thinks that “Ronin” is a good movie. So, this information is suspect. Turns out Noel’s half right. There is a restaurant that named a NY strip after this great actor. That’s a shame. I would’ve suggested a Le Gigot roast lamb cut stuffed with an appropriately themed butter/herb/Gentleman Jack whiskey blend.
The bone marrow arrives. Slit length-wise it looks like a calcified leek. The seared fat is a pale yellow. As we dig in Noel mentions that acting jobs are moving to Canada. With President Trump’s visa crackdown, it is harder for Hollywood actors to work up there. And just like in food, online competition has changed his industry. Netflix is now a film powerhouse. In contrast to other studios they pay actors more up front. But the residuals are less. Retirement for thespians is now riskier.
Lemons are served with our napkins. It has been a long day and my blurting out “breath fresheners?” doesn’t help. Noel is gently laughing. This is the difference between us. I’ve paid my dues in time, pain and money. But food is a part of Noel’s D.N.A. I grew up the son of an importer, Noel the son of a French Moroccan chef. Like me he didn’t want to go into the family business. His lifelong goal was military service. After college Noel decided to join the military and entered into infantry training only to have his enlistment cut short. His father’s health suddenly declined after undergoing invasive heart surgery. So Noel returned home to help his Mom run the business. Can you imagine how tough that was? And never once have I heard him complain about this!
We wrap up dinner at midnight. Three hours of talking but it seems like only a few minutes have gone by. Tomorrow morning he’s getting up early for episode zero of Gordon Ramsey’s new T.V. show. Noel’s audition was a tape of himself making Bearnaise sauce. A local caterer Danny Jambon (thus named for his love of fine cheeses like Madrange) helped film. In it Noel elegantly explains the only difference between Bearnaise and Hollandaise is a shallot. Ironically said shallot was lost before filming. Noel had to quickly carve a red onion stunt double.
My friend’s passion for the French mother sauces (the Sriracha of the 1800’s for hiding the taste of mediocre food) has fallen out of favor. Almost all of them involve roux (flour cooked with butter) having a ménage à deux or trois with someone.
FRENCH “WHEN MOTHER WAS YOUNG & NAUGHTY” SAUCES
Béchamel = roux bangs milk
Sauce Tomato = roux bangs a tomato (easy, non?)
Velouté = roux bangs stock (ooh so velvety)
Espagnole = roux on Viagra bangs stock, mirepoix and a tomato (just for kicks)
Hollandaise = egg yolks + lemon juice + butter
Pristine hollandaise doesn’t have any roux being a later addition to the list (a.k.a. Escoffier’s bastard). While it has a bad rap, hollandaise is just a butter version of mayonnaise. Next time you get a burger try it!